The denim industry is stepping into the spotlight at Kingpins New York, where sustainability and innovation are taking center stage. Giorgia Cantarini’s initiative, the LAB, is providing a platform for emerging designers to showcase their work, developed under sustainable criteria. This edition is particularly notable for its focus on denim and responsible water management, supported by Kering, the luxury group behind brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent.
Designers participating in the LAB have leveraged resources from Kering’s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), alongside industry partners PureDenim and Tonello. These collaborations have led to advancements in dyeing, washing, and regenerative cotton innovations. “The LAB is a testament to the power of collaboration and innovation in driving sustainability within the denim industry,” Cantarini stated. This focus on responsible water management is crucial, as the denim industry is notorious for its water-intensive processes.
The show will also feature Be Disobedient’s trend forecast, with analysts offering their “Trend Picks” in the Kingpins Gallery area. This section highlights new developments in fabric, manufacturing, and finishing processes demonstrated by exhibitors. It’s a clear indication that the industry is not just talking about sustainability but actively seeking and showcasing innovative solutions.
In the creative corner, various projects will be on display in The Boxes area. AGI Denim has partnered with Mahmoud Kosyaem of CreativeMindsBK, a fibre artist who transforms discarded denim scraps into tapestries. This collaboration aims to illustrate methods of utilising textile waste within creative production. “We’re not just about creating new products; we’re about reimagining what’s already been discarded,” Kosyaem said. This approach could revolutionise how the industry views and manages textile waste.
Tonello, an Italian technology company, will debut Botanical Alchemy by Tonello x MN Natural Dye Studio, an installation created with Maegan Neubeck. Neubeck, based in Narrowsburgh, New York, applies botanical dyes and sources raw materials for her textile designs with an emphasis on natural processes. Her studio also works with brands and artisans interested in adopting natural dye and sustainable wash techniques. For this installation, Neubeck used organic matter and plant-based waste to produce colour effects on garments. “We’re proving that sustainability doesn’t mean compromising on aesthetics,” Neubeck noted. This could challenge the norm that sustainable practices often result in less appealing products.
Launched in 2004, Kingpins is an invitation-only denim sourcing show featuring a highly curated selection of companies from across the global denim supply chain. At its October edition in Amsterdam last year, Kingpins featured new “Made In” showcases and an expanded Jeanius Hub, focusing on global craftsmanship and recent developments in denim technology. This event is a barometer for the industry’s direction, and the focus on sustainability and innovation at Kingpins New York suggests a significant shift in priorities.
The initiatives and collaborations highlighted at this event could shape the future of the denim industry. By focusing on responsible water management, utilising textile waste, and adopting natural dye techniques, the sector is demonstrating a commitment to sustainability that could set a new standard. As the industry continues to evolve, these innovations may become the norm rather than the exception, driving the sector towards a more sustainable and responsible future.